Total pics: 13 - 100%
Selfies: 7 - 39% of total
Things Rod Ate: 3 - 22% of total
Fear not. We are still following the same Rod. If you didn't know how devout he was, he's Johnny-on-the-spot here ready to remind you he's one of the elect:
There were only about 30 people there in the side chapel; the cathedral only let people in who wanted to pray. I prayed before the relics of St. Zenobius (337-417), the first bishop of Florence, and again in front of the famed painting of Dante presenting the Commedia to Florence (it is much, much darker than the usual depictions).
But what's drehery devotion without the requisite intramural one-upmanship?
Earlier in the day we had been to mass. Casella and James C. are Catholic traditionalists. I couldn’t find an Orthodox liturgy around town, so I accompanied them. It was a beautiful mass, but it really made me feel how deeply Orthodox I have become liturgically.
Gee, what a shame Dante's Catholic Italy couldn't have been more appropriately Orthodox. But...oh, dear! Is Rod taking risks with his health as the price of taking us with him?
After a while, I began to feel a little dizzy, and had to step out for air. I walked around the block, looking to buy a bottle of water. I found one, then returned to the church and sat on the steps reading the Purgatorio, Canto 10.
Thank God he made it through that, and bless him for informing us of every beep in his health mood. Oh, he makes a brief comment about Dante, too. After the intestines are packed like sausages, that's what it's all about, you know.
And...here we go: like a Berkshire hog awkwardly tottering on his rear trotters, sheepishly trying to mumble his way through a Rosary while remnant slops dribble from his snout, Rod ensures we will not be bereft of a foodie peek:
We had lunch after mass, then gelato — fig and ricotta, black sesame, and pistachio for me — then picked up our tickets for the Uffizi.
But it's as a guide to the art he's experiencing for us, living the experience for us because we can't be there that he truly shines in this post. Here's the description, so richly nuanced with detail that only Rod can describe it this way:
The luminous genius of Botticelli and Michelangelo, in particular, defy my ability to describe. Eventually I just stopped trying to articulate to myself why these paintings were so great, and tried to allow myself to experience them directly....Eventually it’s too much. All that light and beauty is overwhelming.
Okay, sorry. I lied. Like most of the ideas he tries to take credit for articulating, he just fakes his way through this, too. Wouldn't "Wow!" have just been more honest and succinct?
And the takeaway from today's following of Rod following in Dante's footsteps on the Dante Trail trail: why, how Rod confronts his mid-life crisis head on, of course.
Heading toward 50, married to a woman who while she's aged tremendously from the post-teen he initially snagged is currently reveling in her biological prime, just having assumed another mortgage in a rural suburb whose locals forced him to delete his local blog - where, where can Peter escape to?
Back to youth, of course, back to the dreamy Never Never Land of all night college bull sessions:
Tonight James, Casella and I finished with dinner in our apartment. We ate good Italian food and drank good Italian wine and listened to Sidney Bechet, and then Louis Armstrong, and talked about God and Dante and Florence. Stepping into the kitchen to get more water for the table, I thought that this is the kind of moment I dreamed of when I was younger — a night like this, filled with friendship, music, food, and conversation about ideas.
We aren't really on the trail of Dante here at all, followers, we're on the trail of Rod's youth, fleeing him ever more rapidly with each passing month. Adulthood and its responsibilities will be left to Mrs. Dreher, back home where she belongs.
Oh, but he did give a beggar woman a few coins, so there's that.
Will that be enough to save our spiky-haired Pan once Italy is behind him, after he's back, marooned in rural Louisiana with a woman in her prime ten years younger and the kids' college depending on him selling the Dante book he'll still have to write? We'll just have to wait and see.
LOL. Oh my. Well, I would never give myself that much credit, and I doubt the exalted Rod-Man would ever pay a moment's heed to anything a peon like moi would have to say. But hey, at least he finally made it to the Uffizi.
ReplyDeleteSo, you have to buy tickets now? Wow. Times have changed (she said profoundly).
If you do feel dizzy or lightheaded after taking this medicine you should lie down until the symptoms pass.
ReplyDeleteIf this trip's really about the transcendent spiritual-aesthetic experience Rod says it is, my girlfriend would double-tap me in the back of the head at 3 AM if I didn't take her along for that once in a lifetime opportunity to share it with me.
DeleteOTOH, if it's really about all the different, weird, self-indulgent things it seems to be about, I'd get the same treatment if I did.
So maybe Rod's wiser than I've been giving him credit for.
I wouldn't use the word wiser. I would say he is "more crafty" undoubtedly.
DeleteWhat Keith said about Mrs. Dreher. I really feel again for her. It's bad enough she's back home doing the heavy lifting while her husband is off living it up in Italy. But then he goes ahead and rubs her nose in it with this:
ReplyDeleteStepping into the kitchen to get more water for the table, I thought that this is the kind of moment I dreamed of when I was younger — a night like this, filled with friendship, music, food, and conversation about ideas.
Silly girl. The moments that she'd been dreaming of were those of married life and raising a beautiful family. Now she reads, in a public forum, that her husband isn't quite on the same page. How brutal. I really feel for her.
I had the same reaction!! Mamma mia, to coin a phrase. So the most transcendent moments of his life are with his bros? Good grief, his poor wife. "Brutal" is right.
DeleteI have a feeling that whole household is a reeking swamp of passive-aggressiveness and intimidation. If you were Dreher's spouse, knowing his narcissism, the megaphone he holds and how liberally he uses it,how would you behave, much less negotiate your relationship? So there are probably a lot of lip-biting "Of course, dear"s, a near total focus on the children, church as the great escape, and the wisdom not to want to know too much about what Italy was all about.
DeleteI think it's odd he's traveling without his wife, but married men do have good times apart from their wife and children. My parents and their circle had very circumscribed expectations and leavened mixed gatherings and family time with stag gatherings and girl gatherings as a matter of course. That's not done as much, in part because of official attacks on formal men's associations.
DeleteI hear feminists use phrases like 'male dominated society' and I do not recognize it, but I do recall that my father and his contemporaries had a great deal of discretion - even plenary discretion - over how they spent their free time; married men do not have that anymore.
Well, of course men have (and should have) good times apart from their wives and children, Art. I did a little male-bonding myself last weekend with our parish men's club at a golf and fishin' weekend.
DeleteBut this is something different altogether -- Dreher paints it as the "kind of moment he dreamed of when I was younger".
After all, when I got back from that awesome golf weekend, I didn't consider it the pinnacle of my life (and I would have rightfully received blowback from Mrs. Pik had I told her such a thing) -- and it's safe to say none of the other guys thought so, terrific as it was.
So conventional stag gatherings and Dreher's moment-I-dreamt-about are apples and oranges, IMO.
So conventional stag gatherings and Dreher's moment-I-dreamt-about are apples and oranges, IMO.
DeleteCompletely agree. That's why it struck me as weird and "off."
I don't speculate about what goes on in the Dreher Haus. I don't want to know, and it's none of my business anyway. Nonetheless, when something strikes me as weird, well, I'm going to mention it. Because...weird.
In general, I could not care less about what Rod does or doesn't do or with whom or without whom. I get riled only when he bashes the Catholic Church, gratuitously, for the umpteen thousandth time. Nonetheless, I find Keith's trip through this Florentine Inferno both fascinating and funny. And ultimately sad, too, which prompts me to pray for the Drehers.
Anyway, it's a good read. I look forward to each fresh installment.
BTW, when my husband taught at the Louisiana School for Math, Science, and the Arts (at the very time when Rod was a student there--and yes, you may have my autograph), he had a colleague, an English teacher, who once took off for Tibet for several summer months, to backpack and hobnob with the swamis and all. All well and good, but he left his wife and very small child behind. The consensus among the other teachers was that this was a pretty darned immature thing to do. (This same guy once said that he didn't want to buy a house and settle down -- even though housing was cheap as dirt in '80s-vintage Natchitoches, Louisiana -- because that would mean he would have to "grow up," which he didn't want to do. Peter Pan indeed.)
DeleteI don't like to speculate about what goes on in his house.
DeleteBut there is no speculation involved in commenting on what you know that he does because he tells you. So I think it is well and fine to comment on the fact that he likes to (1) travel and (2) tell everybody about it.
It is really hard on my wife when I travel for work. But I have twice as many kids as him.
Funny, I have no problem whatsoever speculating on what an exhibitionist has yet to exhibit. Isn't that the only point?
DeleteLOL, good point. As someone recently observed regarding megachurch super-pope Mark Driscoll, "If you live by the public, you die by the public," so to speak. No one forced Rod to become an over-sharing exhibitionistic "journalist." Once you make that choice (and reap the rewards thereof), you abide the consequences.
Delete*abide BY the consequences.
DeleteI don't like to bring his wife into it, at least not by name. My belief is that she begs him not to mention certain things and he does it anyway. This belief is based on things he had said in the past.
DeleteOh agree 100% WRT Mrs. Dreher and all the little Drehers. They are off-limits.
DeleteBTW, Keith, this cracked me up:
ReplyDelete"Gee, what a shame Dante's Catholic Italy couldn't have been more appropriately Orthodox."
LOL. Love it, on so many levels.
BTW, I had thought that "James C." was the same person as "Casella". Now I see from the VFYT that they are different people? I'm so confused . . .
ReplyDeleteAnd how playful for "Casella" to hide behind the bust like that! But of course once you put Sidney Bechet on the stereo, you never know what can happen.
But this is something different altogether -- Dreher paints it as the "kind of moment he dreamed of when I was younger".
ReplyDeleteI don't see much of a difference, nor that it's an insult to his wife. Keep in mind he has an antique history of trouble with peers. I do agree that 'dreamed about' is an odd turn of phrase to describe this scene, but he may have over the years had relatively little time with friends when he was not in some sort of anxiety state. That's just life for some people.
All well and good, but he left his wife and very small child behind. The consensus among the other teachers was that this was a pretty darned immature thing to do.
ReplyDeleteI would say 'self-centered'. And odd, under the circumstances. Some years ago I was considering relocating to Louisiana and discovered the wages and salaries in that particular trade are about 25% below what they were in New York. I cannot imagine it was normal for school teachers in small towns like Nachitoches to have the disposable income for long-distance foreign travel. In my neck of the woods, teachers painted houses in the summer months.
Actually, Louisiana School paid better than most public schools. That's how my husband ended up there. We had our bags all packed, ready to trek to Athens with hubby's six-month Dumbarton Oaks fellowship. But then Louisiana School came through with a salary offer that hubby's dissertation adviser, the late Angeliki Laiou, described as "more than most associate professors make," so we ended up in beautiful bucolic Natchitoches. And my husband abandoned forever his hopes of entering the professoriae. But it has all worked out for the best.
DeleteYes, Louisiana salaries stank. But the cost of living was really low, too, especially after the domestic oil industry crashed in the early '80s. Housing is the biggest expense any of us has, and Natchitoches-area housing was very, very affordable.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention: This guy came from money. That always helps. ;)
DeleteNot just Louisiana salaries, but 1984 salaries.
DeleteThis guy came from money. That always helps. ;)
Only if you own the money. If it's your great-uncle's money, it does not matter. (And re a schoolteacher with a toddler, it's likely to be in the hands of the older generation).
You must be joking. I come from a blue-collar background, and I struggled financially when I was young. I worked with trust-fund kids who had no trouble amassing an expensive professional wardrobe, even though they made the same crummy salary I did (at a Boston publishing house). Coming from money definitely gives one advantages. The children of wealthy parents seldom have to struggle financially the way the children of the hoi polloi do. At least in my experience. I'm sure there are exceptions. But if you are seriously arguing that there is no advantage to coming from money...well, I guess we will just be talking past each other.
DeleteAt school up in MN back in the day, it was always the kids who came from money who ran off to be on a commune -- they had the security of running back to daddy if (i.e. when) they got tired of it. The kids who grew up on the farm weren't the ones going to live off the land -- been there done that.
DeleteComing from money gives you license to be stupid and irresponsible. See this if you don't believe me. (Even if you do, it is well worth reading -- that's what we're up against.)
Rod seems to be hinting that he and Casella are of a special kind of "natural aristocracy"... their companionship is lacking any ulterior and material motivation like the continuation of the species. Therefore, it is true, honest, ideal and superior to the impure love men sometimes feel towards women. And, therefore, they are superior to normal men.
ReplyDeleteI'm reminded of that passage I dimly remember from Walker Percy ("Last Gentleman"?) where the protagonist sees a play featuring a thinly-veiled parody of James Baldwin and his male companion hearing church bells from their apartment balcony in Italy, and saying something like, "yes, let *us* have a Mass"...
-The Man From K Street